Autumn 2024 / Human & Nature

Gallery: The Perspective of Ascent

by Ben Tibbetts

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Photo Essay

This story has been published in the 2024 Pathfinder Issue of Hidden Compass. While every story has a single byline, storyteller proceeds from all patronage campaigns in this issue will go collectively to Team Beyond the False Summit on top of their article pay.

 

As the 2024 Pathfinder Prize expedition team, “Beyond the False Summit: A European Alps Expedition to Unearth the Queer Pioneers of Alpinism,” journeyed to the summit of Aiguille du Grépon, expeditioner, mountain guide, and renowned climbing photographer Ben Tibbetts chronicled their time together. His marvelous images are studded throughout the stories of this issue, but, to celebrate his work, we present “The Perspective of Ascent,” a gallery of 20 captivating photos from the expedition that take us to the top of the Grépon with the team.

A large group of people waits to board a red and white train.

The journey begins. Pathfinder expeditioner and professional climber Jordan Cannon and expedition leader Lance Garland wait to board the Montenvers train to the foot of the Mer de Glace glacier. They are joined by photographer and mountain guide Ben Tibbetts, and physician and adventure athlete Dr. Valentine Fabre. The days ahead will be long and arduous, but the payoff could be writing a more accurate chapter of mountaineering history — one that honors the queer identities that remained hidden in times and places of nonacceptance. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

Two men climb a ladder up a mountain side.

Lance and Jordan make their way up a ladder in the Mer de Glace valley. The ladder and via ferrata weren’t necessary decades ago, but the receding glacier has changed the landscape. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

Two men walking on wet rocks

Lance follows a step behind Jordan as the team navigates the rocky terrain to Envers hut. The two Pathfinders seek to connect fellow members of their queer athlete community with role models both present and past. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

A man in maroon glissades across the glacier.

Jordan makes his way gracefully across the snow and ice. When they get to Envers hut, the team will immediately head out for a practice climb. Photo: Ben Tibbetts

Three people on the side of a mountain with a small building in the distance perched on a cliff.

High above the Mer de Glace valley, Valentine, Lance, and Jordan stand on a mountain slope, while in the distance below them, Envers hut sits perched on a rocky outcropping. The trio and photographer Ben Tibbetts are preparing for a practice climb — Le Piège — before their ascent of Aiguille du Grépon begins at 3:00 a.m. the next morning. It is the first time the expedition team will climb together. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

A man rock climbing

Jordan slides his fingers into a crack in the wall as he ascends Le Piège. As the more experienced climber, Jordan accepts that the safety of the team is his responsibility. Lance looks on from below. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

A man in an orange jacket examines his backpack illuminating his work with a headlamp.

Lance double checks his pack by headlamp. At 3:00 a.m. on July 23, 2024, the expedition team begins their ascent of Aiguille du Grépon. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

Two climbers on a galcier

By headlamp and moonlight, Valentine and Jordan make their way up Aiguille du Grépon, traversing an icy glacier. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

A woman opens the door to a hut high in the mountains.

Valentine opens the door to Bivouac de la Tour Rouge, a refuge hut for climbers that is perched precariously on a rock ledge at 9,259 feet. The original hut was destroyed by heavy snowfall in 1973. Nearly 50 years after its destruction, the hut was rebuilt in 2021. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

One climber looks down from their perch above the other.

Jordan watches as his simul-climbing partner, Lance, makes his way up during the team’s long ascent of the Grépon. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

A climber in blue pants and an orange jacket scales a rock face.

Physician and mountain athlete Valentine scales one of the innumerable clean granite corners. In 2013 and 2017, she placed first in the Ski Mountaineering World Championships. As the only member of the team who has previously climbed the Mer de Glace route, she is the Pathfinder expedition’s rope gun, leading the team up the Aiguille du Grépon. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

Lance and Jordan take advantage of a spacious ledge on their climb and pause to take it all in. In moments like these, the team took the opportunity to reflect on the climbers who came before them and the queer identities those climbers were forced to hide. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

A female climber in an orange jacket perched high above a glacier.

As the team nears the summit of the Grépon, Valentine leads the way. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

A man in a blue shirt and orange helmet adjusts his rope on a mountainside.

Lance adjusts his rope as he prepares for another push to reach the summit of the Grépon. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

a climber up on a mountain summit with the sun peaking over the mountain.

Jordan reaches the summit. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

A statue of the Virgin Mary on a mountain top.

Waiting to greet climbers at the summit of the Grépon is a 4-foot-tall statue of Our Lady of La Salette — the Virgin Mary. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

Two men high five at the summit of a mountain.

Lance and Jordan share a moment of celebration at the Aiguille du Grépon summit. The team has been climbing since 3:00 a.m. After some time to reflect on what they’ve accomplished and what it means for two openly gay men to follow in the footsteps of Geoffrey Winthrop Young, who made the first ascent of the Mer de Glace route in 1911, it’s time to begin the most dangerous part of their climb: the descent. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

Three mountaineers on a glacier

The team alternates between abseiling — rappelling — down rock faces and traversing treacherous snow and ice as they descend the opposite side of the Grépon. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

Two men looking out at the Matterhorn.

A couple of days after their 23-hour climbing day that took them up and over Aiguille du Grépon, the team goes for a walk at Stellisee, one of Zermatt, Switzerland’s most famous lakes. Here, Lance and Jordan look out at the mountain that brought them to Europe: The Matterhorn — the mountain they didn’t climb. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

Three men and a woman leaping in the air in front of a lake.

The 2024 Pathfinder Expedition team in a rare, full-group photo. After a couple days of recovery, the team celebrates one final time at Stellisee. From left to right: expedition leader Lance Garland, professional climber Jordan Cannon, mountain guide and photographer Ben Tibbetts, and high altitude physician Valentine Fabre. Photo: Ben Tibbetts.

Ben Tibbetts

Ben Tibbetts is a 2024 Pathfinder Prize winner and expedition photographer for “Beyond the False Summit: A Matterhorn Expedition to Unearth the Queer Pioneers of Alpinism.”

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