Stranded With a Rock Band in Narsarsuaq

May 8, 2023 | 11:05 P.M.

Due to high winds, the Pathfinders find themselves grounded.

NOO SARO-WIWA

In 1941 the United States built an airbase here, which was used as a stopover for aircraft traveling from North America to Europe. Our hotel is situated close to a hill near the sparkling blue waters of Eriksfjord. The town has a population of 123, all of whom live in low-rise dormitory-style housing. There are no shops.

We hear that a music band is also stranded here for a couple of days, and they’re putting on a charity show tonight, the proceeds going towards saving Narsarsuaq’s local school (slated to close in the near future). We walk in the dark towards the music venue. It has the size and feel of a school hall, except there’s a bar at the back serving drinks. The band, called Unnuaq (“night”), was very good quality, and are well known in south Greenland. Sign behind them read, “Bevar Narsarsuaq” (“Save Narsarsuaq”).

Colombian and Venezuelan staff from our hotel are dancing to the rock tunes, and by the end of the night we’re all holding hands in a circle and dancing to the final song. Despite being in a tiny, remote town, this hall contains two Nigerians, a Swede, a Frenchman and a handful of South Americans. Globalization is almost inescapable these days.